No cell phone coverage.
No WiFi.
Unexploded ordnance and bomb-blasted tanks everywhere.
Rugged terrain.
Steep, stone-strewn “trails” that double as sand traps for four-wheel-drive vehicles.
No water.
No beds.
No wine bars.
No Escape.
There, we gathered and were told about The Rules. Seriously! THE RULES! These included things like “keep the vehicle behind you in sight at all times” and “if there’s a fork in the road, stop until the vehicle following can see you.” This was serious guidance; in this kind of remote desert, the penalty for not following The Rules could be death.
So we headed south into the GUNNERY RANGE. Mark and the intrepid Emily Matyas led the charge, and the indefatigable Richard Laugharn rode drag. Between them chugged a motley assortment of high clearance four-wheel-drive vehicles packed with food, photographers, adult beverages, camera gear and a Rather Large Telescope.
The expedition took us to many of the sites Mark and Richard photographed over the years. Each place had a story. The happy photographers took off like a flock of scrambling chickens wherever we paused or camped. Picturesque, nearly destroyed tanks? Check! True to stereotype, the guys swarmed these rusting hulks, clambering up to play Tank Commander. On some of the tanks, they could raise and lower the guns and maneuver the turret. Games were played, photos were taken, discussions ensued about the specifications of military vehicles and weaponry. All serious stuff.
We moved camp every night. We got a taste of the magic of the Copper Mountains, Camino del Diablo, Tinajas Altas, the Gunnery Range, old mines and history.
In camp, people told stories, consumed adult beverages, ate darned good food and generally carried on. Mark would tell ‘Absolutely True Tales’ about the area around our campsite, and creative attempts were made to top these. We discussed and reminisced over old adventures, friends, photo gear, history, books, legends and much more. There was lots of laughter.
Jody Forster brought out this Rather Large Telescope, accompanied by the ladder necessary to reach it. It was an extraordinary treat to view the marvels of the night sky in this remote setting. Sadly, Jody died on December 23, 2020. He sought out the skies, stars, clouds and weather drama for his transcendent photographs. Perhaps he’s now up there somewhere roaming around for a closer look. No telescope needed. His nephew created this lovely tribute video.
At night, Mark made a totem and the campers placed rocks or other items around it to see which one the sun would hit first. The winning rock kept the totem.
In general, the going was rough. Traveling off the Camino del Diablo, we followed an intermittent network of narrow trail roads barely wide enough to allow passage. We bucked in and out of steep-sided, boulder-strewn arroyos. We slogged through deep sand. Somehow, we made it into camp, with the mud, dust and desert pinstripes to prove it.
This trip was a whirlwind introduction to a seldom-visited part of Arizona. We covered a lot of ground, encountering the border patrol (several times) and posing for a group photo at The Wall at the Mexican border.
The excursion left everyone eager to return, to photograph and learn more. It gave us a glimpse into how the desert has inspired photographers like Mark and Richard and provided a path for deepening our appreciation of its history and unique beauty.
Hats off to this adventuresome bunch of photographers! Special thanks to Mark Klett and Richard Laugharn for planning, leading the charge and sharing some special places. Kudos to Emily Matyas, Becky Ross, and the myriad volunteer sous chefs who created delectable camp cuisine, and to Bill Fuller who provided a much-appreciated convenience.
To share more from the story of this AZPA trip, Neil Miller created a video so you, too, can relive the experience as it really happened.
Article Photo Credits Unless Otherwise Noted: Betty Drake
Betty Drake
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